Crochet Skull Coaster Set

Crochet Skull Coaster Set: A Halloween Holder with Matching Ruffled Coasters

A stack of coasters can become part of the decoration when its storage holder has a personality of its own. This crochet skull coaster set combines a cream skull-shaped holder with matching coasters, each featuring a small skull surrounded by black openwork and a bright ruffled border.

The contrast between the two layers gives the holder its expression. A black inner cylinder sits behind the cream face, making the eye sockets and nose opening stand out without separate felt pieces. Raised crochet teeth complete the face, with an optional gold tooth for a playful finishing touch.

The coasters repeat the same cream-and-black palette on a smaller scale. Their colorful edges remain visible when stacked inside the holder, so the finished set works as both a tabletop accessory and a Halloween display.

The instructions below follow the text shown in the accompanying video. Keep the video available for the placement of the face openings, the joining of the two layers, and the raised teeth.

Materials and Yarn Choices

You will need:

• Cream or ivory yarn for the holder and skull motifs.

• Black yarn for the holder lining and coaster backgrounds.

• Purple or another contrasting color for the ruffled borders.

• A small amount of yellow or gold yarn for an optional tooth.

• A crochet hook suited to your yarn.

• Stitch markers, scissors, and a yarn needle.

Smooth cotton is a practical choice for the coasters because it gives the small openings and stitches clear definition. Choose yarns of a similar thickness for the different colors so the cream motifs and black backgrounds remain in proportion.

The tutorial does not provide a verified finished size or gauge here. Your yarn, hook, and tension will affect both the coaster diameter and the holder’s capacity. Make one coaster before completing a full stack, then check how it fits inside the holder.

Abbreviations

US crochet terminology is used.

Abbreviation Meaning

ch Chain

sl st Slip stitch

sc Single crochet

hdc Half double crochet

dc Double crochet

inc Work 2 single crochets in one stitch

hdc inc Work 2 half double crochets in one stitch

dc inc Work 2 double crochets in one stitch

dec Single crochet decrease

BLO Back loop only

MR Magic ring

dc3-cl Three-double-crochet cluster

sk Skip

A dc3-cl is a raised cluster, rather than three completed double crochets forming a fan. Leave the final loop of each partial double crochet on the hook, then draw through the accumulated loops to close the cluster together. Follow the video close-up for its placement in the tooth round.

Understanding the Holder

The holder begins as an open ring. You crochet a short cream section, change to black for the inner wall, then return to the unused loops to build the cream outer face.

The face temporarily changes from rounds to rows. These shorter rows shape the back and sides while leaving room for the eye openings. Chain bridges reconnect the work, and a later round joins the cream face to the black lining.

Use separate markers for the beginning of the inner-body rounds and the beginning of the face section. The numbering below follows the video’s section labels.

Part 1: Crochet the Inner Body

Using cream yarn, ch 54. Join with a sl st to form a ring, checking that the chain is not twisted.

Round Instructions Stitches

R1 54 sc 54

R2 54 sc 54

R3 54 sc 54

R4 Change to black; BLO 54 sc 54

R5–R10 54 sc in each round 54

The unused front loops at the cream-to-black transition provide the attachment line for the outer face. Leave these loops accessible.

Keep the black wall smooth as you work. A tightly pulled color change can pinch the cylinder and make the outer layer harder to align.

Part 2: Build the Cream Face

Return to the reserved loops at the transition and attach cream yarn.

Face R1: 54 sc. (54)

Face R2: 38 sc. (38)

Face R3–R4: Ch 1, turn, 38 sc. (38)

These shorter rows do not travel around the entire holder. Keep the unworked section available for the face openings.

Face R5: Ch 1, turn. Inc, 36 sc, inc. (40)

Face R6: Ch 1, turn. Inc, 38 sc, inc, ch 8, sk 7, 2 sc, ch 8, sk 7. (60)

This row widens the solid section and then adds the two chain bridges. Avoid tightening the chains more than the surrounding stitches, as they define the eye openings.

Face R7: 42 sc, 5 sc across the corresponding chain section, ch 2, sk 8, 5 sc across the next chain section. (54)

Continue working in the round.

Before joining the layers, spread the cream face over the black body. Check that both eye openings are visible and that the small central opening is positioned between them.

Face R8: Hold the black body and cream face together. Work 47 sc through the joined layers, 2 sc across the corresponding chain section, then 5 sc. (54)

Keep the two layers aligned while joining. Catching a stitch from the wrong position can twist the face even when the final stitch count is correct.

Part 3: Add the Teeth

The video labels the tooth round as Face R10:

43 sc, (dc3-cl, sc) × 5, dc3-cl. (54)

The six clusters form the raised teeth. For a gold tooth, change to yellow or gold yarn for one cluster, then return to cream.

Keep the color-change ends behind the cream layer so they do not show through the eye sockets. Once the round is complete, gently arrange the clusters so the teeth project evenly.

Part 4: Shape and Close the Holder Bottom

The holder closes with decrease rounds. The table below preserves the formulas and totals displayed in the video.

Pattern clarification: The displayed formulas for R12–R15 do not produce the totals printed beside them. For example, the R12 formula produces 48 stitches, while the caption states 42. These source discrepancies have been retained rather than silently changed. Check this section against the video demonstration before continuing; the table should not be treated as a fully reconciled decrease sequence.

Video label Formula shown on screen Total shown

R12 BLO: 3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec) × 5, 3 sc 42

R13 (5 sc, dec) × 6 36

R14 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec) × 5, 2 sc 30

R15 (3 sc, dec) × 6 24

R16 (sc, dec) × 8 16

R17 8 dec 8

Fasten off, leaving a tail. Thread the tail through the remaining stitches and pull the opening closed. Secure the end inside the holder.

The back-loop round creates a change of direction between the wall and the bottom. Keep this ridge even, and avoid pulling the final closure so tightly that it creates a hard bump underneath.

Finish the Holder Opening

Complete the opening with the slip-stitch edging demonstrated in the video.

For extra structure, the tutorial also shows inserting the hook between Main Body R1 and R2 and working one round of single crochet evenly around.

Work this reinforcement with relaxed tension. An overly tight round can reduce the opening and make it difficult to remove the coasters.

Weave in the remaining ends, smooth the black lining inside the cream shell, and arrange the face before moving on to the coasters.

The bottom is shaped through decreases. Follow the on-screen decrease rounds so the closure remains centered; the written notes do not include a complete decrease schedule.

As the opening becomes smaller, inspect the holder from the side. It should rest without a pronounced bulge underneath.

Finish the upper edge using the reserved loops and edging shown in the video. Check that the opening retains enough flexibility for the coasters to slide in and out.

Part Two: Make the Skull Coasters

Crochet the Small Skull Center

Part 5: Crochet the Small Skull Motif

Each coaster starts with a cream skull. The first round creates the upper head and the chain spaces for the facial openings. The second round defines the outline and lower face.

Coaster R1 — Cream

Make a magic ring, then work the following sequence:

Ch 2, 6 hdc, ch 5, dc, ch 3, dc, ch 5, sl st.

Work the stitches into the magic ring as demonstrated. Tighten the ring enough to bring the center together while preserving the chain openings.

Coaster R2 — Cream

Work:

1. 1.Hdc inc in each of the first 6 hdc.

1. 2.6 sc across the first ch-5 section.

1. 3.Into the ch-3 section: sl st, ch 2, 4 hdc, ch 2, sl st.

1. 4.6 sc across the second ch-5 section.

Join and fasten off. The video displays a total of 30 for this round.

Spread the motif flat before adding black yarn. The two larger openings should remain distinct, with the smaller central opening between them. Secure the cream ends along the solid stitches rather than across an opening.

Part 6: Add the Black Background

Coaster R3 — Black

Attach black yarn and work BLO where indicated in the demonstration.

The displayed sequence is:

Ch 3, (dc inc, dc) × 9, hdc, skip the corresponding ch-2 section, 4 sc, skip the next ch-2 section, hdc, (dc inc, dc) × 3, sl st. (42)

The changes in stitch height help turn the irregular skull outline into a rounded coaster background. Pay attention to the half double crochets and the four single crochets near the lower face; replacing them with double crochets changes the outline.

Coaster R4 — First Mesh Round

Work:

Ch 3, dc inc, ch 2, (sk 2, dc inc, ch 2) × 13, sl st. (56)

Keep the chain spaces open and similar in size. The repeated gaps give the black background its mesh appearance.

Coaster R5 — Second Mesh Round

Work:

Ch 5, sk 2, 3 dc, (ch 2, sk 2, 3 dc) × 13, sl st. (70)

The five starting chains establish the beginning height and first open section shown in the tutorial. Follow the demonstrated joining point to keep the final opening consistent with the others.

Coaster R6 — Solid Edge Foundation

Ch 2, then work:

(3 sc into the previous chain space, 3 sc across the solid section) × 14. (84)

This round creates a continuous edge for the colored ruffle. Count the 84 stitches before changing colors; an uneven foundation will carry through into the final border.

Part 7: Add the Colored Ruffle

Attach purple or your chosen border color.

Working BLO, follow the displayed instructions:

Ch 3. Work 2 dc in each of the next 84 stitches. Sl st to join. (168)

Fasten off and weave in the ends.

The extra stitches create the ruffle. Allow the border to gather naturally while keeping the black center flat. The outer edge is meant to be wavy; the surface beneath the cup should remain stable.

Make additional coasters in the same colors, or give each one a different border. Purple creates the look shown in the tutorial, while orange or green can produce a coordinated Halloween set.

Check the Fit Before Making the Full Set

Place the first finished coaster on a flat surface and set your usual mug over the center.

Check three things:

• The mug rests on the flat center without rocking.

• The ruffled border sits outside the mug’s base.

• The coaster fits inside the holder without being forced.

The mesh includes open spaces, so the coaster is not a continuous barrier against moisture. Wipe up spills promptly and let damp coasters dry before stacking them.

If you change yarn thickness, make the holder and coasters with compatible materials. A thicker coaster may look attractive on its own but take up considerably more space inside the holder.

Troubleshooting the Details

The face openings look uneven

Check the skipped stitches and chain bridges before adjusting the fabric. A misplaced skip changes the opening itself, while uneven chain tension can make correctly counted openings look different.

Lay the cream face over the black body and smooth it gently before joining the layers.

The black lining twists behind the face

Check the alignment of the two layers around the joining round. Remove and rework the affected section if necessary; pulling the finished face into position can distort the eye sockets.

The teeth look like flat fans

Check that you are making closed dc3-cl stitches. Three completed double crochets spread outward, while a closed cluster forms a raised tooth.

The coaster center cups upward

Check the increases and skipped sections in the black background round. Also check whether the chain spaces are being pulled too tightly. Correct a count or placement problem before attempting to flatten the fabric.

The ruffle is full, but the center lies flat

This is the intended result. The increase round gives the outer border its volume. Shape the center gently without stretching the ruffle straight.

Video Tutorial

Use the full tutorial below for the face-opening placement, joining the holder layers, forming the tooth clusters, and working around the small skull motif.

Useful sections:

• 0:22 — Holder foundation and inner body.

• 2:29 — Cream face.

• 5:00 — Eye openings.

• 6:37 — Joining the layers.

• 7:20 — Teeth.

• 9:21 — Bottom shaping.

• 12:38 — Holder finishing.

• 13:28 — Skull coaster.

• 15:07 — Black background and mesh.

• 18:27 — Colored border.

A Halloween Set That Stores Together

The finished holder brings the separate pieces into one display. Stack the dry coasters inside with their colored borders facing upward, allowing the ruffles to remain visible above the skull.

The cream face, dark openings, and small raised teeth give the holder its character, while the matching skull centers connect the coasters to the larger piece. Make one for a favorite mug or build a coordinated stack for a seasonal coffee table.

Pattern reference: The video credits Xiaohongshu creator ranshuiguo004 as its pattern reference.